Esta es un versión antigua publicada el 2020-10-02. Consulte la versión más reciente.

CoDiseñando con Prácticas sostenibles en las Enseñanzas de Diseño de Moda

Autores/as

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5965/25944630432020093

Resumen

El tema de la sostenibilidad se presenta hoy como uno de los principales desafíos a los
que se enfrenta la sociedad hipermoderna. Los educadores y diseñadores de moda tienen
la oportunidad de adoptar un paradigma de diseño de moda, que se aleja de las estructuras
clásicas de la moda rápida y que puede guiarlos hacia un nuevo concepto de moda ética
y sostenible. Desde este enfoque es posible trabajar con criterios de diseño, fabricación y
consumo; pero también reactivar la longevidad de las prendas, mejorando la experiencia del
usuario y la consideración del residuo de moda. Nuestra investigación se basa en el concepto
de moda lenta y la aplicación de métodos de codiseño en las aulas, para alentar el desarrollo
de prácticas sostenibles y nuevos métodos colaborativos en la educación implicando, en el
proceso de generación y desarrollo, a diseñadores, investigadores, artesanos y diferentes
grupos sociales y organizaciones no gubernamentales.
El enfoque metodológico cualitativo se abordó desde la práctica del diseño participativo
en comunidades offline, donde se implementaron varias estrategias de diseño para la
sostenibilidad, tales como; técnicas de piratería, descodificación y recodificación de ropa de
segunda mano, todas ellas basadas en criterios de optimización y mejora de la calidad de las
prendas.
La muestra incluyó a 30 participantes divididos en 5 grupos, cuyos miembros adoptaron
diferentes roles y acciones dentro de los grupos. También se utilizaron varios instrumentos de
recopilación de datos que midieron los niveles de conciencia e impactos positivos sostenibles
en los participantes de los talleres.

Descargas

Los datos de descargas todavía no están disponibles.

Biografía del autor/a

Desamparados Pardo Cuenca, Escuela Superior de Arte y Diseño de Valencia

Desamparados Pardo Cuenca is an International Doctor in Fashion Design and a specialist in the field of collaborative and sustainable fashion design. Her work as a professor begins in 2005 at the EASD in Valencia and ends in 2014 with the launch of the official Master's Degree in Fashion and Sustainability Co-design implemented at the EASD in Valencia. Her line of work focuses on the management of sustainable projects integrated into circular economy processes in which upcycling and emotional durability strategies are applied simultaneously. However, within the master's degree, her work also stands out in a previous phase that was proposed as an alternative to textile waste, intervening on hacking processes and open codes. Desamparados Pardo Cuenca is the main researchers of the group "fashion design, commitment and good practices: methods, instruments and contexts of action" that has been receiving financial subsidies from the Spanish ministry for several years. His most recent projects include: "Emotional Durability versus Material Durability: Co-Design and Sustainability Practices in the Fashion Field" "The poetics of the residue in the teaching of classrooms and contexts of social action" that has the support and integration of the IUAV University of Venezia. And The management of the last sustainable fashion show held in the city of Alcoy. Finally, several international scientific publications are noteworthy both in congress and in seminars and book chapters, which always revolve around the issue of sustainable fashion, education, practice and the application of collaborative working methods.

Citas

BIRTWISTLE, Grete.; MOORE,C.M Fashion Clothing-where does it all end up? International Journal of Retail Distribution Management, V. 35, n. 3, p. 210-216, 2007. Disponível em: https://www.emerald.com/insight/content/doi/10.1108/09590550710735068/full/html?src=recsys&

BLACK, Sandy. Eco-Chic: The Fashion Paradox. London: Black Dog Publishing, 2008.

CHEN,H.; BURNS,L. Environmental analysis of textile products. Clothing and Textile Research Journal. V.24, n. 3, p. 249-261, 2006. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1177/0887302X06293065

FAUD-LUKE, Alastair. Eco Design: The Sourcebook. London: Thames & Hudson, 2002.

FIORE, A.M.; LEE.S.; KUNZ, G.; CAMPBELL, J. R. Relation between optimum stimulation level and willingness to use mass customization options. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management. V.5, n.2, p.99-107, 2001. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1108/EUM0000000007281

FLETCHER, Kate. Sustainable Fashion and Textile: Design Journeys. Earthscan. London: Sterling. 2008

FLETCHER, Kate. Slow fashion: an invitation for system change. Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion.V. 4, n. 2, p. 259-266, 2010. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12774625387594

FLETCHER, Kate. Durability fashion, sustainability: The processes and practice use. Fashion Practice: The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion. V. 4, n. 2, p. 221-238, 2012. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.2752/175693812X13403765252389

FLETCHER, K.; GROSSE, L. Fashion and Sustainability: design for change. London: Laurence King, 2012.

GALLOWAY, A., BRUCKER-COHEN, J.; GAYE, L.; GOODMAN, E.; HILL, D. Design for hackability. ACM. p. 363-366. ACM. 2004. Trabalho apresentado no 5th conference on Designing interactive systems: processes, practices, methods, and techniques.

ElSASSER, V. Textiles: Concepts and Principles. 3rd ed. New York: Fairchild, 2011.

PILLER, F.; SCHUBERT, P.; KOCH, M.; MÖSLEIN, K. Overcoming mass confusion: collaborative customer Co-Design in online communities. Journal of Computer- Mediated Communication, V.10, n. 4, p.00-00, 2005. Disponível em:

https://doi.org/10.1111/j.1083-6101.2005.tb00271.x

PINE, J. Mass Customization. Boston, MA: Harvard Business School Press. 1993.

POOKULANGARA, S.; SHEPHARD, A. Slow fashion movement: understanding consumer perceptions- an exploratory study. Journal of Retailing & Consumer Service, V. 20, p. 200-206, 2013. Disponível em https://doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002

SANDERS, E. B- N.; STAPPERS, P. J.Co-creation and the new landscape of design, Co-Design: International Journal of Co-Creation in Design and the Arts, V. 4, n. 1, p.5-18, 2008. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.1080/15710880701875068

SANDERS, Elizabeth. B.-N. Design research. Design research quarterly, V. 1, n. 1, p.1-8, 2006a. Copenhagen, University of Art and Design

SANDERS, Elizabeth. B.-N Design serving people. Trabalho apresentado no Cumulus Working Papers, 2006, p. 28-33. Copenhagen, University of Art and Design.

SANDERS, Elizabeth. B.-N An evolving map of design practice and design research. Interactions, V. 15, n. 6, p. 13-17, 2008. Disponível em:http://grcd3021-f18.studiojunglecat.com/wpcontent/uploads/2018/08/LizSanders_AnEvolvingMapOfDesignPracticeAndDesignResearch.pdf

ULRICH, Pamela V.; ANDERSON‐CONNELL, Lenda Jo.; WU, Weifang. Consumer co‐design of apparel for mass customization. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, V. 7, n. 4, p. 398-412, 2003. Disponível em:

https://doi.org/10.1108/13612020310496985

VON BUSCH, O. Engaged design and the practice of fashion hacking: the examples of Giana Gonzalez and Dale Sko. Fashion Practice The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion, V. 1, n. 2, p. 163-185, 2009. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.2752/175693809X469148

WU, Juanjuan. Co-design communities online: Turning public creativity into wearable and sellable fashions. Fashion Practice : The Journal of Design, Creative Process & the Fashion [online] V. 2, n. 1, p. 85-104, 2010. Disponível em: https://doi.org/10.2752/175693810X12640026716474

Publicado

2020-10-02

Versiones

Cómo citar

CUENCA, Desamparados Pardo. CoDiseñando con Prácticas sostenibles en las Enseñanzas de Diseño de Moda. Revista de Ensino em Artes, Moda e Design, Florianópolis, v. 4, n. 3, p. 93–116, 2020. DOI: 10.5965/25944630432020093. Disponível em: https://periodicos.udesc.br/index.php/ensinarmode/article/view/18254. Acesso em: 1 jul. 2024.