Consumo colaborativo de moda e slow fashion: percursos para uma moda sustentável
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x14342021035Palavras-chave:
moda sustentável, consumo colaborativo de moda, slow fashionResumo
Este estudo discute a possibilidade de integração entre consumo colaborativo de moda e slow fashion, sugerindo que a demanda pela sustentabilidade na moda pode ser atendida por meio dos benefícios advindos da aquisição de roupas trocadas, alugadas, de segunda mão, vintage ou recicladas, aliadas ao movimento slow. Como abordagem metodológica, o estudo emerge a partir da apropriação da literatura sobre os temas consumo colaborativo de moda e slow fashion, apresentando reflexões e articulações sobre os assuntos. Como resultados, destacam-se evidências de que os temas compõem o campo da moda sustentável, configurando-se uma alternativa para consumidores que desejam adentrar nesse segmento de moda. As principais contribuições deste estudo residem na apresentação de proposições e considerações que podem servir de arcabouço para o desenvolvimento de pesquisas futuras na seara da moda sustentável.
Downloads
Referências
ALMEIDA, A. R. D.; CORREA, P. S. A. Bancos de tempo como estilos de vida colaborativos na era digital: um estudo de caso da plataforma beliive. Revista ADM.MADE, v. 24, n. 3, p. 74-94, 2020.
ANTANAVIČIŊTĖ, A.; DOBILAITĖ, V. Principles of slow fashion application in clothing collection creation. Environmental Research, Engineering and Management, v. 71, n. 2, p. 54-59, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.5755/j01.erem.71.2.12392.
APTEKAR, S. Gifts among strangers: the social organization of freecycle giving. Social Problems, v. 63, n. 2, p. 266-283, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1093/socpro/spw005.
ARMSTRONG, C. M. et al. Sustainable product-service systems for clothing: exploring consumer perceptions of consumption alternatives in Finland. Journal of Cleaner Production, v. 97, p. 30-39, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2014.01.046.
ASSOCIAÇÃO BRASILEIRA DO VAREJO TÊXTIL. Mapa do varejo de moda. 2016. Disponível em: <https://www.abvtex.org.br/mapa-varejo-de-moda/>. Acesso em: 19 out. 2019.
BATTAGLIA, M.; TESTA, F.; BIANCHI, L.; IRALDO, F.; FREY, M. Corporate social responsibility and competitiveness within SMEs of the fashion industry: evidence from Italy and France. Sustainability, v. 6, n. 2, p. 872-893, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/su6020872.
BECKER-LEIFHOLD, C.; IRAN, S. Collaborative fashion consumption – drivers, barriers and future pathways. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 22, n. 2, p. 189-208, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-10-2017-0109.
BELK, R. You are what you can access: Sharing and collaborative consumption online. Journal of Business Research, v. 67, n. 8, p. 1595-1600, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jbusres.2013.10.001.
BIANCHI, C.; BIRTWISTLE, G. Sell, give away, or donate: an exploratory study of fashion clothing disposal behaviour in two countries. The International Review of Retail, Distribution and Consumer Research, v. 20, n.3, p. 353-368, 2010.
BILLESON, K.; KLASANDER, K. Dress code: sustainable fashion – bridging the attitude-behaviour gap. 2015. 56 f. Tese (Bachelor in Global Studies) – School of Education and Communication, Jönköping University, Jönköping, Suécia, 2015.
BOTSMAN, R.; ROGERS, R. What’s mine is yours: how collaborative consumption is changing the way we live. London: Collins, 2011.
BLY, S.; GWOZDZ, W.; REISCH, L. A. Exit from the high street: an exploratory study of sustainable fashion consumption pioneers. International Journal of Consumer Studies, v. 39, n. 2, p. 125-135, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12159.
BYUN, S.; STERNQUIST, B. Fast fashion and in-store hoarding. Clothing and Textiles Research Journal, v. 29, n. 3, p. 187-201, 2011. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/0887302x11411709.
CLARK, H. SLOW + FASHION – an oxymoron – or a promise for the future…? Fashion Theory, v. 12, n. 4, p. 427-446, 2008. http://dx.doi.org/10.2752/175174108x346922.
CATALDI, C.; DICKSON, M.; GROVER, C. Slow fashion: tailoring a strategic approach towards sustainability. 2010. 102 f. Tese (Master of Strategic Leadership towards Sustainability) – School of Engineering, Blekinge Institute of Technology, Karlskrona, Suécia, 2010.
DIÁRIO DO NORDESTE. Armário circular. 2018. Disponível em: https://diariodonordeste.verdesmares.com.br/editorias/verso/armario-circular-1.1993364. Acesso em: 19 out. 2019.
ELLEN MACARTHUR FOUNDATION. A new textiles economy: redesigning fashion’s future. Cowes, UK: Ellen Macarthur Foundation, 2017. 150 p. Disponível em: http://www.ellenmacarthurfoundation.org/publications. Acesso em: 19 out. 2019.
ERTEKIN, Z.; ATIK, D. Sustainable markets: motivating factors, barriers, and remedies for mobilization of slow fashion. Journal of Macromarketing, v. 35, n. 1, p. 53-69, 2015.
EUROSTAT. Packaging waste statistics. 2016. Disponível em: <https://ec.europa.eu/eurostat/statistics-explained/index.php/Packaging_waste_statistics>. Acesso em: 19 out. 2019.
FARRANT, L.; OLSEN, S. I.; WANGEL, A. Environmental benefits from reusing clothes. The International Journal of Life Cycle Assessment, v. 15, n. 7, p. 726-736, 2010. http://dx.doi.org/10.1007/s11367-010-0197-y.
FASHION REVOLUTION. Índice de Transparência da Moda Brasil. UK: Fashion Revolution Cic e Instituto Fashion Revolution Brasil, 2018. 72 p.
FLETCHER, K.; GROSE, L. Moda & Sustentabilidade: design para mudança. São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2011.
GAZETA DO POVO. Roupa por assinatura permite variar peças sem gastar muito nem lotar o armário. 2017. Disponível em: https://www.gazetadopovo.com.br/viver-bem/moda-e-beleza/closet-compartilhado-em-curitiba/. Acesso em: 19 out. 2019.
GOLDSWORTHY, K.; EARLEY, R.; POLITOWICZ, K. Circular speeds: a review of fast & slow sustainable design approaches for fashion & textile applications. Journal of Textile Design Research and Practice, v. 6, n. 1, p. 42-65, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/20511787.2018.1467197
GREENPEACE. Wegwerfware kleidung. Repräsentative greenpeace-umfrage zu kaufverhalten, tragedauer und der entsorgung von mode. 2015. Disponível em: https://www.greenpeace.de/sites/www.greenpeace.de/files/publications/20151123_greenpeace_modekonsum_flyer.pdf. Acesso em: 19 out. 2019.
GRIMSHORN, C.; JORDAN, M. Ownership - a challenged consumer Ideal – a study of two collaborative consumption practices: clothing libraries and clothes swapping. 2015. 57 f. Tese (Master in Globalization, Brands and Consumption) – School of Economics and Managemen, Lund University, Lund, Suécia, 2015.
HALL, J. Digital kimono: fast fashion, slow fashion? Fashion Theory, v. 22, n. 3, p. 283-307, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2017.1319175.
HAMMOND, C. Stitching time: artisanal collaboration and slow fashion in post-disaster haiti: artisanal collaboration and slow fashion in post-disaster Haiti. Fashion Theory, v. 24, n. 1, p. 33-57, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1080/1362704x.2018.1441001.
HENMAN, J. Why do you share?: an explorative study on attitudes towards collaborative consumption among young adults in Malmö. 2019. 46 f. Tese (Master in Environmental Studies and Sustainability Science) – Centre for Sustainability Studies, Lund University, Lund, Suécia, 2019.
HENNINGER, C.; RYDING, D.; ALEVIZOU, P. J.; GOWOREK, H. Introduction to sustainability in fashion. In: HENNINGER, C.; RYDING, D.; ALEVIZOU, P. J.; GOWOREK, H. Sustainability in fashion: a cradle to upcycle approach. Switzerland: Springer International Publishing, 2017.
HENNINGER, C. Traceability the new eco-label in the slow-fashion industry? - Consumer perceptions and micro-organisations responses. Sustainability, v. 7, n. 5, p. 6011-6032, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/su7056011.
HENNINGER, C. E.; ALEVIZOU, P. J.; OATES, C. J. What is sustainable fashion? Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 20, n. 4, p. 400-416, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-07-2015-0052.
HENNINGER, C. E.; BÜRKLIN, N.; NIINIMÄKI, K. The clothes swapping phenomenon – When consumers become suppliers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 23, n. 3, p. 327-344, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-04-2018-0057.
HU, Z.; LI, Q.; CHEN, X.; WANG, Y. Sustainable rent-based closed-loop supply chain for fashion products. Sustainability, v. 6, n. 10, p. 7063-7088, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/su6107063.
ISLA, V. L. Investigating second-hand fashion trade and consumption in the Philippines: expanding existing discourses. Journal of Consumer Culture, v. 13, n. 3, p. 221-240, 2013. http://dx.doi.org/10.1177/1469540513480167.
IRAN, S.; SCHRADER, U. Collaborative fashion consumption and its environmental effects. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 21, n. 4, p. 468-482, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-09-2016-0086.
IRAN, S. Sustainable Fashion: from production to alternative consumption. In: JASTRAM, S.; SCHNEIDER, AM. (Eds.) Sustainable Fashion. Cham: Springer, 2018, p. 139-159.
IRAN, S.; GEIGER, S. M.; SCHRADER, U. Collaborative fashion consumption – A cross-cultural study between Tehran and Berlin. Journal of Cleaner Production, v. 212, p. 313-323, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2018.11.163.
JOHANSSON, E. Slow fashion - the answer for a sustainable fashion industry? 2010. 94 f. Tese (Master in Applied Textile Management) – The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Borås, Suécia, 2010.
JOUNG, H.; PARK-POAPS, H. Factors motivating and influencing clothing disposal behaviors. International Journal of Consumers Studies, v. 37, p. 105-111, 2013.
JUNG, S.; JIN, B. A theoretical investigation of slow fashion: sustainable future of the apparel industry. International Journal of Consumer Studies, v. 38, n. 5, p. 510-519, 2014. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12127.
JUNG, S.; JIN, B. From quantity to quality: understanding slow fashion consumers for sustainability and consumer education. International Journal of Consumer Studies, v. 40, n. 4, p. 410-421, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.1111/ijcs.12276.
JUNG, S.; JIN, B. Sustainable Development of Slow Fashion Businesses: customer value approach. Sustainability, v. 8, n. 6, p. 1-15, 2016. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/su8060540
KARG, C. New fashion minimalism in an affluent society: a paradigm shift? 2015. 90 f. Tese (Master in Textile Management) – The Swedish School of Textiles, University of Borås, Borås, Suécia, 2017.
KIM, H.; CHOO, H. J.; YOON, N. The motivational drivers of fast fashion avoidance. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 17, n. 2, p. 243-260, 2012. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-10-2011-0070.
KOROBAR, V. The interconnection of sustainability and collaborative consumption: a case study of clothing libraries. 2013. 40 f. Tese (Master in Human Ecology) – Faculty of Social Sciences, Lund University, Lund, Suécia, 2013.
KUMAR, R.; VACCARO, K. An experimentation engine for data-driven fashion systems. In: The Aaai 2017 Spring Symposium, 4., 2017, Illinois. Symposium. Illinois: Aaai Publications, 2017. p. 389 - 394.
LAITALA, K.; KLEPP, I. Environmental improvement by prolonging clothing use period. Towards sustainability in the Textile and Fashion industry, Copenhagen, p. 26-27, April 2011.
LEE, J. Y.; HALTER, H.; JOHNSON, K. K. P.; JU, H. Investigating fashion disposition with young consumers. Young Consumers, v. 14, n. 1, p. 67-78, 2013.
LEE, D. A.; AHN, I. A study on slow fashion related to convergence design. Journal of the Korean Society of Costume, v. 65, n. 2, p. 33-47, 2015.
LEE, K. H.; MENDES, F. Novos modelos de negócios da moda: uma análise com base nos arquétipos de negócios sustentáveis. Modapalavra e-periódico, v. 14, n. 32, p. 150-178, 2021
LEGERE, A.; KANG, J. The role of self-concept in shaping sustainable consumption: A model of slow fashion. Journal of Cleaner Production, art. 120699, 2020.
LEISMANN, K.; SCHMITT, M.; ROHN, H.; BAEDEKER, C. Collaborative consumption: towards a resource-saving consumption culture. Resources, v. 2, n. 3, p. 184-203, 2013. http://dx.doi.org/10.3390/resources2030184
LUNDBLAD, L.; DAVIES, I. A. The values and motivations behind sustainable fashion consumption. Journal of Consumer Behaviour, v. 15, n. 2, p. 149-162, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/cb.1559.
MAGNUSON, B.; REIMERS, V.; CHAO, F. Re-visiting an old topic with a new approach: the case of ethical clothing. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 21, n. 3, p. 400-418, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-10-2016-0091.
MCNEILL, L. S.; SNOWDON, J. Slow fashion–Balancing the conscious retail model within the fashion marketplace. Australasian Marketing Journal (AMJ), v. 27, n. 4, p. 215-223, 2019.
MONT, O.; PLEPYS, A. Sustainable consumption progress: should we be proud or alarmed? Journal Of Cleaner Production, v. 16, n. 4, p. 531-537, 2008. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2007.01.009.
MULIM, L.; SUAREZ, M. Aberta, Irreverente e do Bem: uma investigação dos discursos slow fashion a partir do caso Dobra. Revista ADM.MADE, v. 24, n. 2, p. 65-80, 2020.
NIINIMÄKI, K.; HASSI, L. Emerging design strategies in sustainable production and consumption of textiles and clothing. Journal Of Cleaner Production, v. 19, n. 16, p. 1876-1888, 2011. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2011.04.020.
NIINIMÄKI, K. Fashion in a circular economy. In: HENNINGER, C.; RYDING, D.; ALEVIZOU, P. J.; GOWOREK, H. Sustainability in fashion: a cradle to upcycle approach, Switzerland: Springer International Publishing, 2017.
NIINIMÄKI, K. Tenents of sustainable fashion. In: NIINIMÄKI, K. (Ed.). Sustainable fashion: new approaches. Helsinki: Aalto ARTS Books, 2013, p. 12-29.
OVERDIEK, A. Opportunities for slow fashion retail in temporary stores. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 22, n. 1, p. 67-81, 2018. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-05-2017-0042.
PAIN, H. A literature review to evaluate the choice and use of visual methods. International Journal of Qualitative Methods, v. 11, p. 303–319, 2012.
PEDERSEN, E. R. G.; A., K. R. Sustainability innovators and anchor draggers: a global expert study on sustainable fashion. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 19, n. 3, p. 315-327, 2015. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-08-2014-0059
PEDROSO, P. Guarda-roupa compartilhado oferece acesso a peças por assinatura em SP. Folha de São Paulo, São Paulo, SP, 8 de janeiro de 2017. Disponível em: https://www1.folha.uol.com.br/saopaulo/2017/01/1847632-guarda-roupa-compartilhado-oferece-acesso-a-pecas-por-assinatura-em-sp.shtml. Acesso em: 19 outubro 2019.
POOKULANGARA, S.; SHEPHARD, A. Slow fashion movement: understanding consumer perceptions – An exploratory study. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, v. 20, n. 2, p. 200-206, 2013. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2012.12.002.
RO, J.; KIM, M. The characteristics and aesthetic values of slow fashion from a social viewpoint. Journal of the Korean Society of Clothing and Textiles, v. 35, n. 11, p. 1386-1398, 2011.
ŞENER, T.; BIşKIN, F.; KđLđNÇ, N. Sustainable dressing: consumers' value perceptions towards slow fashion. Business Strategy and the Environment, p. 1-10, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1002/bse.2330.
SOBREIRA, É. M. C.; SILVA, C. R. M.; ROMERO, C. B. A. Do empowerment and materialism influence slow fashion consumption? Evidence from Brazil. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 24, n. 3, p. 415-435, 2020. https://doi.org/10.1108/JFMM-08-2019-0176
STANSZUS, L.; IRAN, S. Sustainable fashion. In: IDOWU, S. O.; CAPALDI, N.; FIFKA, M.; ZU, L.; SCHMIDPETER, R. (Eds.). Dictionary of corporate social responsibility. Cham: Springer, 2015.
SUNG, J.; WOO, H. Investigating male consumers’ lifestyle of health and sustainability (LOHAS) and perception toward slow fashion. Journal of Retailing and Consumer Services, v. 49, p. 120-128, 2019. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jretconser.2019.03.018.
TODESCHINI, B. V.; CORTIMIGLIA, M. N.; CALLEGARO-DE-MENEZES, D.; GHEZZI, A. Innovative and sustainable business models in the fashion industry: entrepreneurial drivers, opportunities, and challenges. Business Horizons, v. 60, n. 6, p.759-770, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.bushor.2017.07.003.
WATSON, M. Z.; YAN, R. An exploratory study of the decision processes of fast versus slow fashion consumers. Journal of Fashion Marketing and Management: An International Journal, v. 17, n. 2, p. 141-159, 2013. http://dx.doi.org/10.1108/jfmm-02-2011-0045.
WU, Z. Share your closet?: an exploratory study of collaborative consumption business models and consumers in fashion industry. 2015. 41 f. Tese (Master of Science in Environmental Sciences, Policy & Management) – Lund University, Lund, Suécia, 2015.
ZAMANI, B.; SANDIN, G.; PETERS, G. M. Life cycle assessment of clothing libraries: can collaborative consumption reduce the environmental impact of fast fashion? Journal of Cleaner Production, v. 162, p. 1368-1375, 2017. http://dx.doi.org/10.1016/j.jclepro.2017.06.128.
Downloads
Publicado
Como Citar
Edição
Seção
Licença
Copyright (c) 2021 Érica Maria Calíope Sobreira, Clayton Robson Moreira da Silva, Cláudia Buhamra Abreu Romero
Este trabalho está licenciado sob uma licença Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
Ao submeter um artigo para publicação no ModaPalavra e-periódico, o(s) autor(es) concorda(m) com os seguintes termos:
- Autores mantêm os direitos autorais e concedem à revista o direito de primeira publicação, com o trabalho simultaneamente licenciado sob a Creative Commons Atribuição-NãoComercial 4.0 Internacional, que permite o compartilhamento do trabalho com reconhecimento da autoria e publicação inicial nesta revista, sem pagamento;
- Os autores podem utilizar os mesmos resultados em outra publicações após a primeira publicação, desde que indiquem o ModaPalavra e-periódico como o meio de publicação original;
- Autores têm autorização para assumir contratos adicionais separadamente somente após a publicacão inicial no ModaPalavra e-periódico, desde que indiquem o ModaPalavra e-periódico como o meio de publicação original;
- Autores têm permissão e são estimulados a publicar e distribuir seu trabalho on-line (ex.: em repositórios institucionais ou na sua página pessoal), somente após o processo editorial e primeira publicação, desde que indiquem o ModaPalavra e-periódico como o meio de publicação original;
- Para indicar o ModaPalavra e-periódico como o meio de publicação original, o autor deve seguir texto modelo: "Este artigo foi publicado originalmente pelo ModaPalavra e-periódico, sob a licença CC BY NC, em seu volume [inserir volume], número [inserir número] no ano de [inserir ano], e pode ser acessado em: http://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/";
- As opiniões expressas nos artigos são de inteira responsabilidade dos autores, não refletindo necessariamente a opinião da revista. A publicação de artigos, fotos e desenhos foi autorizada previamente pelos responsáveis ou seus representantes para publicação no ModaPalavra e-periódico.
