The diamond engagement ring: the role of an adornment in the history of contemporary society

Authors

  • Paulina Helena Zanluchi Mior Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul image/svg+xml
  • Mariana Pohlmann de Oliveira Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul image/svg+xml
  • Vinicius Gadis Ribeiro Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul image/svg+xml
  • Gabriela Zubaran Pizzato Universidade Federal do Rio Grande do Sul image/svg+xml

DOI:

https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x17412024128

Keywords:

jewellery design, technological evolution, engagement ring, diamond

Abstract

The use of a diamond ring is currently considered a tradition in an engagement. Considering the set of values commensurate with this tradition, the present work seeks to identify the semiotics associated with diamonds in conjunction with engagement rings as the materialisation of the ideal of romance. Regarding the methodology, we conducted a bibliographic review of books and articles. From the study, we identified the technological changes associated with diamond rings, encompassing various models and their meanings. We observed that the advertisements for the gem, created by the company De Beers in the first half of the 20th century, are the origin of the symbolic attributes linked to the diamond ring. In addition, changes are observed in the social sphere, indicating the transformation of the use of this garment over the last century, not being restricted to women only.

Downloads

Download data is not yet available.

References

ABRAM, C. Explained: Diamonds. S02 E10. Vox & Netflix Worldwide entertainment: 2019.

AHDE-DEAL, P. Jewelry as Provocateurs of Emotions. In: KEER2010. International Conference on Kansei Engineering and Emotion Research. The Design Society, 2010.

BERGSTEIN, R. Brilliance and Fire: a biography of Diamonds. Harper Paperbacks: 2016.

BONOS, L. Tiffany’s created an engagement ring for men. Washington Post, 2021. Disponível em: https://www.washingtonpost.com/lifestyle/ 2021/05/11/tiffany-engagement-ring-men-mangagement/ Acesso em 16 de junho de 2022.

DAMÁSIO, A. Em busca de Espinosa: prazer e dor na ciência dos sentimentos. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, 2004.

DE BEERS. The diamond insight report: diamonds and love in the modern world. London: De Beers Group, 2019. Disponível em: https://www.debeersgroup.com/~/media/Files/D/De-BeersGroup/documents /reports/insights/the-diamond-insight-report-2019.pdf. Acesso em 17 de julho de 2022.

DESMET, P.; HEKKERT, P. Framework of product experience. International Journal of Design, v. 1 (1), p. 57-66, 2007.

EBERT, J. M. Art Deco: The period, the jewelry. Gems & Gemology, Vol. 19, Nº 1. Carlsbad: Gemological Institute of America, 1983.

FALLS, S. Clarity, Cut, and Culture: The Many Meanings of Diamonds. NYU Press, 2014.

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA. Engagement Rings Through the Ages. Carlsbad: GIA, 2011. Disponível em: https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/engagement-rings-through-the-ages-2/

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA. Diamonds & Diamond Grading. [Material de didático do curso Diamond & Diamond grading, lecionado no GIA]. Carlsbad: GIA, 2019.

GEMOLOGICAL INSTITUTE OF AMERICA. Secret Messages in Jewelry - Acrostic Jewelry. Carlsbad: 4Cs, 2015. Disponível em: https://4cs.gia.edu/en-us/blog/secret-messages-jewelry-acrostic-jewelry/

GONG, B.; YUAN, R. Study of Contemporary Jewelry Design Emotional Expression Skills. Journal of Arts and Humanities, v. 6, n. 2, p. 57, 2017.

HASSENZAHL, M. User Experience and Experience Design. in Encyclopedia of Human Computer Interaction. The Interaction Design Foundation, 2011. Disponível em: https://www.interaction-design.org/literature/book/the-encyclopedia-of-human-computer-interaction-2nd-ed/user-experience-and-experience-design/

JONES, J. The history and object of jewellery. London: 1847. Disponível em: https://archive.org/details/HistoryAndObjectOfJewellery/ Acesso em 02 de junho de 2022.

KUNZ, G. F.. Rings for the Finger. Dover Publications, 1917. Disponível em: https://archive.org/details/ringsforfingerfr00kunz/ Acesso em 02 de junho de 2022.

LIANG, M.; WANLI, Z. Emotional expression in jewellery design under the background of artificial intelligence. Expert Systems, e13134, 2022.

LÖBACH, B. Design Industrial: bases para a configuração dos produtos industriais. São Paulo: Blucher, 2001.

MASKELL, J. The wedding-ring: its history, literature, and the superstitions respecting it. Simpkin, Marshall, & Co, 1888. Disponível em: https://archive.org/details/TheWeddingRing/maskell-j-wedding-1888-RTL015172-LowRes/

METROPOLITAN MUSEUM OF ART. Bronze ring key. New York. Disponível em: https://www.metmuseum.org/art/collection/search/246764/ Acesso em 06 de julho de 2022.

NORMAN, D. Design emocional: Porque adoramos (ou detestamos) os objetos do dia a dia. Rio de Janeiro: Racco, 2008.

RADEN, A. Stoned: Jewelry, Obsession, and How Desire Shapes the World. Ecco Press, 2016.

SHIGLEY, J. Historical Reading List: The Diamond Fields of South Africa. Carlsbad: GIA, 2017. Disponível em: https://www.gia.edu/gia-news- research/historical-reading-diamond-fields-south-africa-1868-1893/

SILVA, R. A joia: história, simbolismos e emoções. Dissertação de Mestrado. Salvador: Universidade Federal da Bahia, 2020.

STATISTA. Women’s most wanted precious stones for engagement rings in Germany in 2013. 2013. Disponível em: https://www.statista.com/statistics/718368/women-most-wanted-precious-stones-engagement-rings-germany/ Acesso em 16 de junho de 2022.

SWINDLER, K. The Diamond as an Engagement Ring. Gems & Gemology, Vol. 6, Nº 7. Carlsbad: GIA, 1949. Disponível em: https://www.gia.edu/doc/ fall_1949.pdf

TAKAMITSU, H.; MENEZES, M. O uso da função estética e simbólica no processo de criação de joias. 15º ERGODESIGN - Congresso Internacional de Ergonomia e Usabilidade de Interfaces Humano-tecnologia. Blucher Proceedings, 2015.

THE KNOT. Jewelry & Engagement Study. New York: XO Group, 2021.

TIFFANY & CO. Tiffany setting. 2021. Disponível em: https://twitter.com/tiffanyandco/status/1363185450039525377/ Acesso em 17 de julho de 2022. 1 fotografia.

VICTORIA AND ALBERT MUSEUM. Ring. Google Art & Culture. Disponível em: https://artsandculture.google.com/asset/wAHAxMZ5T0Cvsw/ Acesso em 02 de julho de 2022.

WANG, Y. Sentimental expression in jewelry design. Milano: Politecnico di Milano, 2020. Dissertação de Mestrado. Disponível em: https://www.politesi.polimi.it/handle/10589/153690

WATERMAN, K. The History of Engagement Rings. GIA Knowledge Sessions Webinar Series. Carlsbad: Gemological Institute of America, 2021. Disponível em: https://youtu.be/xMAcJ4JGBwY/ Acesso em 02 de maio de 2022.

ZHANG, F.; WANG, J. The Product Design of Emotional Intelligent Jewelry for Women. In: Proceedings of the 2nd International Conference on Information, Control and Automation, ICICA 2022, December 2-4, 2022, Chongqing, China. 2023.

Published

2024-01-02

How to Cite

MIOR, Paulina Helena Zanluchi; OLIVEIRA, Mariana Pohlmann de; RIBEIRO, Vinicius Gadis; PIZZATO, Gabriela Zubaran. The diamond engagement ring: the role of an adornment in the history of contemporary society. ModaPalavra e-periódico, Florianópolis, v. 17, n. 41, p. 128–169, 2024. DOI: 10.5965/1982615x17412024128. Disponível em: https://periodicos.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/article/view/23865. Acesso em: 11 may. 2024.