The impact of fashions institutions on contemporaneity: an analysis of Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.5965/25944630632022e2144Keywords:
fashion institution, field, reproductionAbstract
The aim of the research is to investigate the impact of the actions of the Fédération de la Haute Couture et de la Mode (FHCM) in the global fashion field. The institution was created in 1868 in Paris, France, was chaired by couturiers and administrators of some maisons de couture and played a significant role in fostering and protecting the clothing industry in France, especially the sur mesure one. Existing to this day, its mission is to promote the "French fashion culture" and to reinforce the role of the city of Paris as the fashion capital of the world. The Fédération's actions will be thought of from the current structure of the space of production and circulation of fashion goods and agents. Such structure will be interpreted as a global dimension field, which is, in turn, formed by several national fields. Although there is an interdependence of these fields, the French field has a greater influence on the definitions and decision making of this global field. Once the FHCM is the most relevant fashion grouping in France today, the idea is to point out how the actions of this institution are an attempt to reproduce and maintain the structure of this field. The research methodology consists in analyzing documents and archives of the FHCM; consulting the media through which it communicates; and investigating from multidisciplinary bibliographies. The analysis of this material will be conducted based on a theoretical framework of sociology.
Downloads
References
BOURDIEU, Pierre. A economia das trocas linguísticas. São Paulo: Edusp, 1996.
BOURDIEU, Pierre. Sociologia geral volume 1. Petrópolis: Vozes, 2021 (tradução de Fábio Ribeiro).
BOURDIEU, Pierre; DELSAUT, Yvette. O costureiro e sua griffe: contribuição para uma teoria da magia. Educação em Revista, n.34, p.7–66, 2001.
BUCHHOLZ, Larissa. What is a Global Field? Theorizing Fields beyond the Nation-State. The Sociological Review, n.64, p.31–60, 2016.
BUFFET, Virginie. Revue Française du Marketing, n.191, p.21-31, 2003.
CRANE, Diane. Globalization, organizational size, and innovation in the French luxury fashion industry: Production of culture theory revisited. Poetics, v. 24, p.393–414, 1997.
CRANE, Diane. A moda e seu papel social: Classe, Gênero e Identidade das Roupas. São Paulo: Senac São Paulo, 2013.
EUROPE STRATEGIE ANALYSE FINANCIERE. L'industrie mondiale du luxe : l'impératif de la création face à la banalisation des marchés. Paris: Eurostaf, 1992.
GRUMBACH, Didier. Histoires de la mode. Paris: Éditions du Regard, 2017.
KURKDJIAN, Sophie The cultural value of Parisian Couture. In: STEELE, Valerie. Paris Capital of fashion. Londres: Bloomsbury Visual Arts, 2019.
LIPOVETSKY, Gilles. O império do efêmero: a moda e seu destino nas sociedades modernas. São Paulo, SP: Companhia das Letras, 1991.
MICHETTI, Miqueli. Moda brasileira e mundialização. São Paulo: Annablume: FAPESP, 2015.
ORTIZ, Renato. Mundialização e cultura. São Paulo: Brasiliense, 1994.
ORTIZ, Renato. O Universo do luxo. São Paulo: Alameda, 2019.
POUILLARD, Véronique. Managing fashion creativity. The history of the Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne during the interwar period. Investigaciones de História Económica - Economic History Research, v.12, n. 2, p.76–89, 2016.
SANT’ANNA-MULLER, Mara Rubia. Prêt-à-Porter, discussões em torno de seu surgimento e relação com a Alta-Costura francesa. Projética Revista Científica de Design l – Universidade Estadual de Londrina, v.2, n.2, p.114-127, 2011.
STEELE, Valerie. Paris fashion: a cultural history. Oxford: Berg, 1999.
ZAJTMANN, David. La place de Paris au sein des capitales de mode. Institut Français de la Mode, 2015.
VEBLEN, Thorstein. The Economic Theory of Woman’s Dress. The Popular Science monthly, v. 46, p.198-205, 1894. Disponível em: https://www.taylorfrancis.com/books/9781351311434/chapters/10.4324/9781351311441-6. Acesso em: 17 mai. 2022.
Downloads
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2022 Bárbara Venturini Ábile
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License.
a. Authors retain copyright and grant the journal the right of first publication, with work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution 4.0 International License, which allows the sharing of work with acknowledgment of authorship and initial publication in this journal.
b. Plagiarism, in all its forms, constitutes unethical publication behavior and is unacceptable. This magazine uses iThenticate similarity control software.