Clothing historical illustration: from Schwarz to João Affonso
DOI:
https://doi.org/10.5965/1982615x16382023171Keywords:
illustrated books, fashion history, clothing illustrationAbstract
This article aims to present a chronology of illustrated works with a historical bias on clothing, since the publication of Trachtenbuch (1560), by Matthäus Schwarz. A set of works considered canonical will be listed because they present important aspects of the process of use and circulation of costume images, divided into categories: clothing books, costume books, habits engraving books, great illustrated books, romantic/historicist books and modern books. This mapping and classification, carried out in a doctoral thesis through bibliographic review and documental research, resulted in 35 works surveyed and a clipping with 25 books will be presented in these pages, in addition to the highlight of the book Três Séculos de Modas (1923), by João Affonso, a pioneering work of the genre in Brazil. This production helped us to reflect on how the construction of an imaginary about clothing was present in publications that will give rise to the field of clothing history.
Downloads
References
AFFONSO, João. Três Séculos de Modas (1616-1916). Belém: Livraria Tavares Cardoso & Cia., 1923. (Biblioteca Brasiliana Guita e José Mindlin).
AMMAN, Jost. Habitus praecipuorum populorum... Nuremberg, 1577 (National Central Library of Rome – Internet Archive).
ANDRÉ-BARTON, Michel-François d’. Costume des anciens peuples. 2 vol. Paris: C.-A. Jombert, 1772-1774. (Gallica - BnF).
BALDINI, Massimo. A Invenção da Moda. Lisboa: Edições 70, 2005.
BARTHES, Roland. História e sociologia do vestuário. In: Inéditos. Vol. 3: imagem e moda. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 2005, p. 258.
BARTHES, Roland. Sistema da Moda. São Paulo: Martins Fontes, 2009.
BERTELLI, Ferdinando. Omnium fere gentium nostrae aetatis habitus ou Abiti di tutte le genti della nostra época mai pubblicati prima d’ora. Veneza, 1563. (Getty Research Institute – Internet Archive).
BERTELLI, Pietro. Diversarv nationvm habitvs. Itália: 1590. (Getty Research Institute - Internet Archive).
BOEHN, Max von. La moda: historia del traje en Europa desde las origenes del cristianismo hasta nuestros dias. 12 volumes. 3. ed. Barcelona: Salvat, 1951.
CALANCA, Daniela. História Social da Moda. São Paulo: Editora Senac, 2010.
CARVALHO, Larissa Sousa de. De gli habiti antichi, et moderni di diuerse parti del Mondo (1590) de Cesare Vecellio: tradução parcial e ensaio crítico. Dissertação (Mestrado em História) – Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas. Campinas, SP: [s.n.], 2013.
CARVALHO, Larissa Sousa de. Mapeando os livros de trajes do século XVI e a literatura de moda no Brasil. Tese (Doutorado em História) - Universidade Estadual de Campinas, Instituto de Filosofia e Ciências Humanas. Campinas, SP: [s.n.], 2018.
CARVALHO, Vânia Carneiro de; LIMA, Solange Ferraz de. Cultura visual na era da reprodutibilidade técnica. dObra[s] – revista da Associação Brasileira de Estudos de Pesquisas em Moda. v. 5, n. 11, 2012. p. 56-66.
CHARPENTIER, G.; FASQUELLE, E. Un Siécle de Modes Féminines (1794-1894) – Quatre cents toilettes reproduites em couleurs d’aprés de documents authentiques. Paris: G. Charpentier et E. Fasquelle, 1896. (Internet Archive).
COELHO, Teixeira. Dicionário crítico de política cultural: cultura e imaginário. São Paulo: Iluminuras, 2012.
CUMMING, Valerie. Understanding Fashion History. Londres: Batsford, 2004.
DAVENPORT, Millia. The book of costume. New York: Crown Publishers, 1948.
DE BRUYN, Abraham. Habitus variarum orbis gentium... Colônia, 1581. (Getty Research Institute - Internet Archive)
DE BRUYN, Abraham. Omnium pene Europae, Asiae, Aphricae atque Americae gentium habitus... Local desconhecido: Joss de Bosscher excudit, 1581. (Gallica – BnF).
DEMAY, Germain. Le costume au moyen âge, d’aprés les sceaux. Paris: D. Dumoulin, 1880. (Gallica – BnF).
DESPREZ, François. Recueil de la diversité des habits qui sont de présent usiage. Paris, 1567 [1562]. (Gallica – BnF).
ELIAS, Norbert. O processo civilizador. 2. ed. Rio de Janeiro: J. Zahar, 2011.
FAIRHOLT, William. Costume in England: a history of dress from the earliest period till the close of the eighteenth century. London: Chapman and Hall, 1846. (Harvard University – Internet Archive)
HAGE, Fernando. Entre palavras, desenhos e modas: um percurso com João Affonso. Curitiba:Appris, 2020.
HAGE, Fernando. Imagens na História do Vestuário: cânones e sintomas na obra Três Séculos de Modas. Tese (Doutorado em Artes). Universidade Federal do Pará, Instituto de Ciências da Artes. Belém, PA: [s.n.], 2022. Disponível em:https://ppgartes.propesp.ufpa.br/index.php/br/teses-e-dissertacoes/teses/463-2022. Acesso em: 12.07.2022.
HERBERSTEIN, Siegmund Freiherr von. Picturae variae generosum ac magnificum domi. Vienna, 1566. (Österreichischen Nationalbibliothek).
HOPE, Thomas. Costumes of the Ancients. London: W. Bulmer, 1809. (Getty Research Institute – Internet Archive)
HOLLANDER, Anne. Seeing Through Clothes. Berkeley: University of California Press, 1993.
HOTTENROTH, Friedrich. Le costume, les armes, les bijoux, la céramique, les ustensiles, outils, objets mobiliers, etc. : chez les peuples anciens et modernes. 2 vol. Paris : A. Guérinet, 1896. (Smithsonian Libraries – Internet Archive)
HUGHES, Talbot. Dress design - An Account of Costume for Artists & Dressmakers. Ebook: Project Gutenberg, 2011 [1920].
KÖHLER, Carl. History of Costume. Londres: George G. Harrap, 1956. (Archaeological Survey of India – Internet Archive).
LAVER, James. A Roupa e a Moda: uma história concisa. São Paulo: Companhia das Letras, [1989] 2010.
LIPOVETSKY, Gilles. O Império do Efêmero: a Moda e Seu Destino nas Sociedades Modernas. São Paulo: Companhia de Bolso, 2009.
MERCURE GALANT. Gallica. Paris: Au Palais, 1678-1714. Diretor: Jean Donneau de Vizé. (Gallica – BnF)
PLANCHÉ, James Robinson. A cyclopedia of costume, or, dictionary of dress, including…, 2 vol. London: Chatto and Windus, 1876-79. (University of Toronto - Internet Archive).
POISSON, Michel. Cris de Paris / dessinés d'après nature par M. Poisson. Paris, 1774-1775. (Gallica – BnF)
QUICHÉRAT, Jules Étienne Joseph. Histoire du costume en France depuis les 18e siècle. Paris: Hachette, 1877. (University of Toronto - Internet Archive).
RACINET, Auguste. Enciclopédia histórica do traje. Lisboa: Replicação, 1994.
RACINET, Auguste. Le costume historique: cinq cents planches, trois cents en couleurs, ... / recueil publié sous la direction de M. A. Racinet. Paris: Firmin-Didot, 1888. (Gallica – BnF).
RENAN, Ary. Le costume em France. Paris: Librairies-imprimeries réunies, 1890. (Internet Archive).
RÉTIF DE LA BRETONNE, Nicolas-Edme. Monument du costume physique et moral de la fin du dix-huitième siècle, ou Tableaux de la vie. Orné de figures dessinées et gravées par M. Moreau le jeune et par d'autres célèbres artistes. Paris, 1789. (Gallica – BnF).
RIBEIRO, Aileen. Introdução. In: RACINET, Albert. Enciclopédia histórica do traje. Lisboa: Replicação, 1994. p. 4-7.
RIELLO, Giorgio. The object of fashion: methodological approaches to the history of fashion. Journal of Aesthetics and Culture, Vol. 3, 201.
ROCHE, Daniel. A cultura das aparências: uma história da indumentária (séculos XVII-XVIII). São Paulo: Editora Senac São Paulo, 2007.
RUBLACK, Ulinka; HAYWARD, Maria. The First Book of Fashion – The Book of Clothes of Matthäus & Veit Konrad Schwarz of Augsburg. London: Bloomsbury, 2015.
SANT'ANNA, Mara Rúbia. Era uma vez a moda...: algumas histórias para se lembrar. Cienc. Cult., São Paulo, v. 62, n. 2, p. 33-35, 2010.
SCHWARZ, Matthäus; RENNER, Narziss. Das schwarzsches Trachtenbuch I. Alemanha, 1560. (Library Genesis - Internet Archive).
STRUTT, Joseph. A Complete View of the Dress and Habit of the People of England. London: J. Edwards, 1799. (Internet Archive).
TAYLOR, Lou. Establishing dress history. Manchester: Manchester University Press, 2004.
VECELLIO, Cesare. De gli habiti antichi et moderni di diuerse parti del mondo libri dve. Venetia: Presso Damian Zenaro, 1590. (Getty Research Institute - Internet Archive).
VICO, Enea. Diversarum gentium nostrae aetatis habitus. Venetia, 1558. (Rijiksmuseum Amsterdam).
Published
How to Cite
Issue
Section
License
Copyright (c) 2022 Fernando Augusto Hage Soares
![Creative Commons License](http://i.creativecommons.org/l/by-nc/4.0/88x31.png)
This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International License.
When submitting an article for publication in ModaPalavra e-periodico, the author (s) agree (s) with the following terms:
- Authors maintain the copyright in their manuscripts and grant the journal the right of first publication, with work simultaneously licensed under the Creative Commons Attribution-NonCommercial 4.0 International, which allows sharing the work with the acknowledgment of authorship and the initial publication in the journal without payment ;
- Authors may use the same results in other publications after the first publication, provided that they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- Authors are authorized to take additional contracts, separately, only after the original publication in ModaPalavra e-journal, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- Authors are allowed and encouraged to publish and distribute their work online (eg in institutional repositories or on their personal page), only after the editorial process and the first publication, provided they indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium;
- To indicate ModaPalavra e-journal as the original publication medium, authors should use the following text template: "This article was originally published by ModaPalavra e-periodical, under a CC BY NC license, in its volume [insert volume] number [insert number] in the year of [insert year], and can be accessed at: http://www.revistas.udesc.br/index.php/modapalavra/ ";
- The opinions expressed in the articles are the author’s sole responsibility, not necessarily reflecting the journal’s opinion. The publication of any material that is owned and held in copyright by a third party, including – but not limited to - articles, photos or drawings was previously authorized by their representatives to be published in ModaPalavra e-journal.